Introduction Of Double Sided Suede Raising Method

　　Double sided suede is a single product, and its shadow is always indispensable in fashion shows. It can be said to be a timeless trend! Up to the top of the head - double sided suede hat, down to the foot - double sided suede shoes and boots, suitable for men and women of all ages, soft-touch, retro rough style, let people put it down. But people's love for double sided suede is essentially more from the pursuit of double sided suede fluff. Fluff is the essence of double sided suede and one of the most important factors in judging the quality of double sided suede. Let's introduce how the double sided suede fluff came from?

　　Why can double sided suede be raised? Then we have to talk about the raw materials for making double sided suede. Double sided suede is woven from microfiber island silk, and then it is dyed, opened, sanded, dyed, shaped, combed, rolled, and made into the island. Silk is the fundamental reason why double sided suede can be fluffed. It is difficult for a clever woman to cook without rice. There are many products for sanding, but fabrics that do not contain island silk cannot achieve the fluff effect of double sided suede no matter how you grind them. It can be said that there is no island silk. Not suede!

　　The sea-island yarn we have been talking about is not a single sea-island yarn, but a sea-island-type composite ultra-fine mixed fiber network yarn formed by combining ordinary sea-island yarn and high-shrinkage yarn, which is referred to as "sea-island yarn". . It is a combination of four concepts, namely island yarn, composite fiber, mixed fiber, and network yarn. Double sided suede is the side that needs to be raised. In the process of weaving the grey fabric, the island silk is used as the raw material. When the island silk floats on the surface of the fabric with a larger floating thread, after the fiber opening process in the dyeing factory, the shape of the high shrinkage silk is fixed. When it is released and shrinks, the sea component of the sea-island yarn dissolves, and the island fibrils are tangled around the high-shrinkage yarn in a relaxed state. The island fibrils are composed of ultra-fine fibers, the fiber diameter is very small, and the absolute strength is low. Therefore, under the same conditions, the island fibrils formed by island-in-the-sea silk are more easily broken than other fibers, resulting in many fine and even fluff tufts on the surface of the fabric.

　　Understand the reason why double sided suede can be raised, let's talk about the method of raising double sided suede - sanding and brushing.

　　The sanding process is generally carried out in the dyeing factory, which belongs to the pre-treatment stage in the production process of double sided suede fabrics. A certain amount of raising agents is added to the reservation, which is also very important here. The flat surface of the cloth can reduce the generation of sanding strips.) Sanding is to put the double sided suede that can be raised, go through the sanding machine, and wrap it with emery sand leather. With the high-speed rotation of the rotating stick, the sandpaper rubs against the fabric and fluffs!

　　The diamond grit is used by the double sided suede sander. The quality, hardness, and mesh size of the sand skin have a great influence on the sanding effect! There are several types of sand skins. The larger the mesh, the finer the sanding effect. Therefore, different requirements for fluff can be controlled by changing the sandpaper on the sanding machine.

　　Sanding is controlled by the amount of tension, the gravity of the sanding roller, and the speed of rotation. This determines that sanding can only be used to grind thicker, inelastic, and relatively flat double sided suede, like a double sided suede that bounces on four sides. As soon as the tension is applied to the suede, the width of the door shrinks very much, and it is easy to produce sanding strips, which requires another method of raising - brushing! Pulling is through the rapid rotation of the rotating roller covered with steel needles on the pulling machine.

　　Generally, warp-knitted double sided suede, elastic double sided suede, and softer and thinner double sided suede are all raised with a napping machine. Sometimes a cylinder of cloth needs to be brushed several times, 8 times, 10 times, to obtain a finer fleece feeling. Like weft double sided suede, if you only use sanding, there will be a serious problem of leakage at the bottom (there is less fluff, you can see the rung of the bottom of the cloth), you can brush first and then sand to improve.

　　The velvet feeling of double sided suede is the essence of double sided suede fabrics, and the quality of velvet feeling affects the grade of double sided suede items! It's not that short hair is good, and long hair is bad. The length of the fluff should be based on different uses and design needs. For example, after finishing the full version of bronzing, the fur needs to be longer and denser, and the leather will feel stronger!