Double sided suede, dense and soft suede effect, simulated leather texture, and retro style, make double sided suede fabric widely used in clothing, home textiles, bags, shoe materials, and other fields, enduring. Now people call it double sided suede, Generally, it refers to artificial double sided suede, also known as imitation double sided suede. With the improvement of people's living standards, people's pursuit of color is beyond the satisfaction of natural double sided suede, while artificial double sided suede gives double sided suede gorgeous colors, and any color can be produced.
The rich colors of artificial double sided suede make double sided suede clothes and double sided suede items trendy. But at the same time, there is an inevitable problem. That's the color fastness. Double sided suede also fades, and even many people are complaining about how the color fastness of double sided suede is so poor. What about the color fastness of double sided suede? Let's talk about it today.
Double sided suede fabric dyeing is machine cylinder dyeing and disperse dye dyeing. As we all know, when the fabric is dyed, fewer dyes are used, and the color fastness will be higher. Therefore, generally, double sided suede with light color and neutral color can reach level 3 or above by wet grinding, while the dark color such as big red, brown, navy blue, and black, the color fastness can generally reach level 2.5 by dry grinding and level 2 by wet grinding. ISO105 6-color fiber color fastness, nylon, and acetate only have 2 grades, wool 2.5 grades, cotton and acrylic have 4 grades!
It's the same chemical fiber cloth. Why is the dark color fastness of double sided suede so poor? Double sided suede is a kind of superfine fiber. Its single yarn is generally 0.1 D or lower, thinner than traditional chemical fiber, and its surface area is much larger than traditional polyester, so the color yield is much lower! Ordinary ternary dark disperses dye, 8% (OWF) polyester is already very deep. To reach the same depth, the amount of double sided suede dye should be increased by at least 50%! Double sided suede fiber is fine, dispersed dye is dark, and the dye concentration is generally 12-15% (OWF). With so many dyes, the fiber is already saturated, so the dyed solution is very dark. Generally speaking, the dye can't be eaten and floats on the surface, so the dark color fastness of double sided suede is generally not very good! Generally, the color fastness of woven double sided suede is higher than that of knitted double sided suede, and the color fastness of non-elastic is higher than that of elastic.
Is there any way to improve the color fastness of double sided suede?
1. Choose raw materials with good color-eating ability, and don't look at the same thing. Polyester yarns produced by different manufacturers have different properties, which means that you get what you pay for. Now, black ones are generally dyed with black silk grey cloth, which can reduce the number of black dyes and improve the color fastness of black.
2. Choose dyes with strong stability. Different dye brands are different in different dyeing factories, and the production process and control of dyeing factories are slightly different. Dyestuff is one thing. Reduction cleaning is a must to improve the color fastness of double sided suede. Well-managed dyeing factories do this in strict accordance with the process, and some dyeing factories don't do it at all. After all, where the price is, one more process costs one more. This is also the reason why the price of double sided suede in the market is chaotic and the quality is mixed. The difference in dyeing cost in different dyeing factories is as high as 3-4 yuan, and the difference in dyeing cost in knitting double sided suede is 4-10 yuan/kg.
3. The setting temperature should be low. Generally, the setting temperature of double sided suede is about 170 -180 degrees. The dyeing of double sided suede is similar to physical migration. When it is set at a high temperature, the dye will run out, especially those with elastic knitting and spandex, which is why the color fastness of knitted double-sided suede is worse than that of woven double-sided suede.